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Melbourne is set to welcome two major Anglo-Canto fusion restaurants. Why Anglo-Canto works, but not Anglo-Greek/Italiano

Melbourne Food and Wine Festival — Wishbone search result

Melbourne is set to welcome two major Anglo-Canto fusion restaurants — each arriving from different directions of the genre, and at different price points.

Wishbone
Lucas Collective · Chris Lucas
Opening Oct 2026
Location McKillop Street laneway, 435 Bourke Street precinct (Midtown CBD)
Chef Dan Chan (ex-Yardbird, Hong Kong)
Format Multi-story all-day HK-inspired diner
Kitchen Fully electric, specialised electric woks; 6-Star Green Star building

1950s–70s aesthetic with a dominant red palette. High-energy street-food interpretations over formal fine dining. First of two Lucas venues within the 435 Bourke Street development.

Mott 32
Maximal Concepts
Opening Mar 2027
Location Crown Melbourne precinct, Southbank Riverwalk
Operator Maximal Concepts (HK, SG, Las Vegas)
Format Luxury Cantonese fine dining
Context Part of Crown’s $200M retail & hospitality redevelopment; brand’s first Australian entry

Signature menu anchored by 42-day applewood-roasted Peking duck and Iberico pork char siu — replicating the format deployed across their international locations.

Why “Anglo-Canto” works — and why “Anglo-Italian” or “Anglo-Greek” struggles

Why Anglo-Canto fusion feels natural

Cantonese cuisine in diaspora form has a long history of adaptation as a survival strategy. From early Chinese migration to Australia, the US, and the UK, Chinese restaurants often had to use available local ingredients, cater to unfamiliar palates, and operate under economic constraints. This created a whole genre — chop suey, sweet and sour, lemon chicken — that was already hybrid long before “fusion” became a marketing term. When chefs at Mott 32 or Chris Lucas elevate this tradition, it reads as natural evolution, not imposition. There is no sacred, unviolated original.

Cantonese cooking is also pragmatically ingredient-flexible. It is less rule-bound around specific techniques or “authentic” flavour profiles than many other cuisines, which makes substitution and reinterpretation feel like refinement rather than betrayal.

Why Anglo-Italian & Anglo-Greek fusion is fraught

Italian and Greek food carries strong emotional and cultural weight around authenticity in the Western imagination — tied to family, heritage, and regional identity. Fusion risks reading as disrespectful or clueless: sriracha in a carbonara, a deconstructed moussaka. The reaction is rarely just about taste; it is about cultural ownership.

The power dynamic matters too. Anglo-Canto fusion is often led by Chinese or Asian-Australian chefs reclaiming and elevating a cuisine that was historically looked down upon. Anglo-Italian or Anglo-Greek fusion, by contrast, can look like a dominant culture borrowing from a minority one without the same historical context of marginalisation to navigate.

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